Balconies on three sides

Day One - Tuesday, 11 July

The Polymnia Apartments, Kefalonia

Early start with Graham arriving at 05:30 for the trip to Luton to catch the 08:30 First Choice flight to Kefalonia. We had booked the previous week when I was in Doha. One week, self-catering, three-sun grade apartment with two bedrooms for £129 – although when the airport tax, fuel surcharge, meal and luggage increase were added (15kg to 20kg – which, in the end we didn’t really need) it came to about £200 per person.

All well with the flight. It took off 20 minutes late, but arrived on time at 13:15. We had a row to ourselves and so were able to spread out.

When we arrived in Kefalonia we were told by the First Choice representative that we had been downgraded to a two-sun grade apartment with no pool and no TV, but that they would compensate us £50 each for the inconvenience.

It turned out we were in a place – the Polymnia Apartments (4*) in Lassi (3*) - which we would book again. It is great. It’s quiet, off the beaten track, wonderful views. The place is spotlessly clean and we have four balconies, one looking east, two looking south, and another west, so we get the sun whatever time of day it is. Tom has the double bed and I have the twin bedded room.

As in all Greek Island accommodation you have to put the toilet paper in a bin. It takes some getting used to.

We were told we would be transferred by coach, but we decided to hire a 4x4 open top jeep for €460. It was a Suzuki Vitara and we headed off to find out accommodation. Tom was the navigator – and a excellent one too.

The beach near our apartment

After unpacking we went exploring and found a small beach not far from our apartment. The road to it was steep and sandy and the 4x4 came in useful. It is said that Kefalonia has some of the cleanest water in the Ionian Sea. I have not seen such crystal clear water before. We spent half an hour in the waves before having a shower (most beaches have shower facilities – sometimes just a pipe, tap and shower head).

We got cleaned up and headed into Argostoli where we had a late lunch – it was now about 15:00 – of squid and fresh fish at a small sea front restaurant. The restaurant (2*) was an extremely authentic place and not one for the tourists, but it was good. Argostoli is the capital of Kefalonia and has some fine buildings. Everything is painted in pastel shades.

Argostoli is the main port for ferries to the islands and other parts of Kefalonia. There is an attractive central square with several pedestrian streets leading off. In the evenings people just walk up and down taking coffee or eating ice cream. There are loads of expensive shops at one end and cheap shops selling fake sunglasses and other novelties at the other.

We stopped at an Internet café to check mail and websites and Tom had a lemon ice cream before we headed back to the apartment along the lower, slower and prettier route. The way Tom found was through woodland and hugging the coast. On the way we found a small cover for paddling near the lighthouse then headed back to Lassi.

We’d had a bit of trouble with the Suzuki Vitara’s gear box. It was murder trying to get it to change from first to second and own from third to second. This was particularly worrying at junctions or where we needed to drop down a gear for a hill. We’d been to the hire car company – a local firm called Pefonis (3*), which had been recommended by First Choice (in fact they shared their desk). They gave us a discount with them (for changing our accommodation) of one free day, so we only had to book six rather than seven. They were very helpful. The man drove the vehicle and agreed to change it the following day.

It was now late evening, so we cleaned up and heading into town again for a meal at the Nefeli Restaurant (2*) for pizza. It was fine, but it was a Greek pizza. They are much fatter and they use real tomatoes, so Tom had his work cut out removing the tomatoes and pips. I had stuffed vine leaves, hummus and bread.

I am not drinking during the day because I am driving and also because I felt it would be more fun for Tom. I have a small bottle of wine, which I had a glass of in the evening, but we were so tired that we collapsed at 10:30 and didn’t wake up until 09:00 the following day.